I’ve been loving Simon Hopkinson’s The Good Cook
on TV and nearly every week have been inspired to cook something from it.
Smoked Haddock Pilaf was a revelation. Lighter and more aromatic than Kedgeree, with garam masala rather than curry powder, lemon zest, grated fresh ginger and coriander. Using chicken stock gave it depth and a fresh green chilli the desired zip.
I actually used naturally smoked cod (not the bright yellow dyed version) and finished my dish on the hob as my oven was probably not hot enough for the rice to steam in the stock. But a triumph nevertheless.
What to drink with it? Conventional wisdom suggests big chardonnay based whites or riesling for smoked fish. But let me recommend a pick up a penguin wine (it’s a good way to remember the rather obscure name) Picpoul de Pinet, Domaine Guillaume Cabrol 2010, from the Languedoc.
It’s rarely seen outside its appellation round the salt ponds bordering the Med, and is usually matched with the mussels and oysters farmed in them. Light, grapefruity, fresh with a slight floral finish and it proved a perfect match for the aromatic and salty pilaff.
Available at Majestic at £7.99, or on offer at two for £6.99. Waitrose stocks Domaine de Felines Picpoul, and Tesco also has one is its Finest range. It also works as a splendid summer aperitif.