Greetings once more from across the border, and boy is the Ribble Valley looking lush! Hawthorn hedges are bursting forth and the sun’s shining – a perfect day to drop into Breda Murphy’s fabulous light-filled restaurant under the railway arches in Whalley, just outside Clitheroe.
It looks like someone’s semi, but push on through and find yourself in a deli, high-end kitchen gizmo shop and the aforesaid eatery. Breda trained at Darina Allen’s Ballymaloe Cookery School, and became the youngest tutor there. More recently she was head chef at the Inn at Whitewell before striking out on her own. No wonder then that her menu is eye-catching and characterful and the food sublime. You know we don’t say this lightly.
Fennel tart tatin with Yorkshire feta with beetroot & vanilla dressing is a gimme at £5.95, fresh, sweet and a perfect plate of food. Warm salad of Goosnargh chicken liver, honey glazed chipolatas, sauteed wild mushrooms and crispy parma ham is a innovative take on an old standard, the liver succulent, pink and bob on. And then. OMG as the young people say. If you can’t think of a reason to drive all the way to Whalley, we’ll give you one. Breda’s bread, butter & ginger pudding with crème anglaise is possibly the best, not just in Lancashire, but the land. As if this isn’t enough, take home one of Breda’s chill/cook dinners from the deli. Knocks the beans on toast you were planning into a cocked hat. [Mandy]
Food by Breda Murphy, Abbots Court, 41 Station Road, Whalley, Clitheroe, Lancashire BB7 9RH T: 01254 823446 www.foodbybredamurphy.com Open: Tue-Sat 10am-6pm
Closed Sun & Mon. Open some evenings from 7pm