Whites, Beverley

When chef John Robinson told us he had ditched his à la carte in place of a no choice, tasting menu, my heart sank. I’ve just about had it with square plate after square plate of tiny morsels, sprinkled with Liliputian veg., smeared with skidmarks and showered with pea shoots or whatever the current fad is. He offers four brilliant courses for just 40 quid Wednesday and Thursday  (nine courses for £75 Wednesday through Saturday) we reckon Whites is the exception that makes the rule.

The decor is low key: wood floor, bare tables, linen napkins. But the food soars: superb ingredients, simply prepared, pared down, held back and – glory be – actually assembled by the chef so you don’t have to chase the dots and dabs around the plate. JR is much influenced, I feel sure, by two years at Winteringham Fields under the great Annie and Germain Schwab. He’s certainly absorbed the prime lesson of fantastic tasting food. It must be four or five years since I last ate here – it was good then – but the improvement since is off the scale. This guy, working solo in midweek, is one of Yorkshire’s best chefs. Fact.

The wine list has some interesting selections and sensible tasting notes.