The Owl, Leeds

The Venetian domes have been a Vicar Lane landmark since 1857 when Kirkgate Market claimed to be the biggest indoor market in Europe.  It can’t make that claim today, the stalls are much reduced, some replaced by a scattering of street food kiosks and while they are very good, it’s a big, draughty space that doesn’t always feel very inviting.

Liz Cottam with Mark Owens created the upmarket Home a few years ago. They went on to create something a bit revolutionary for Kirkgate; the Owl, the first pub in the rackety old market that Liz fondly remembers being taken to as a kid.

The Owl was a tiny, all black cave with dishes created from the market produce right outside its front door, with a menu of pub standards only far superior to any pub grub you might have had. Think oysters and Champagne; venison sausage roll with gravy and mash, a roast game bird of the day to share.

Then came lockdown and like many, they created meals in a box. I had one, they were sophisticated packages, far more involved than the food of Kirkgate. Now they have moved from the market to Home’s old home in the city centre.

We will report back when we have tested it.