Star Inn the Harbour, Whitby

It was a long time coming.  Andrew Pern, owner and chef of the much-lauded Star Inn at Harome, the Star Inn the City, has opened in Whitby, his home town.

After a major fit-out, he’s transformed the former tourist office by the harbour and a mere mackerel throw from the Whitby fish dock, into a predominantly fish restaurant.

It’s a terrific menu: there are Lindisfarne oysters to set you off then posh prawn cocktail. Then there’s deep fried and tender calamari with squid ink aioli. If you must there’s fish and chips (cod with beef dripping) chips and homemade tartar sauce or sticky pork belly and tiger prawns. Cop-out of fish altogether with steak and chips, confit duck leg, burger or mushroom risotto.

He does proper puddings like ginger parkin ‘knickerbocker glory’ with blackcurrant and liquorice ice cream. Or you could opt as we did for an ice cream from the cute ice cream parlour at the side.

As at Star Inn the City, there’s a bar and outdoor drinking terrace. On a sunny Saturday lunch all of Whitby was pouring in and out for pints. An evening meal would be more genteel, if that’s your preference.

The décor is a riot of lobster pots, model galleons and Frank Meadow Sutcliffe sepia snaps of Whitby waifs, which makes the whole package cheerful if not conspicuously cheap. And while I gather there was grumbling from the established chippies of Whitby at the prospect of Pern hitting town, there’s plenty of room for someone bringing a fresh perspective to our fish and shellfish.