Star at Sancton, Market Weighton

Don’t be fooled by the plain exterior of this  roadside pub two miles south of Market Weighton on the southern edge of the Wolds, one of the gentlest, unspoiled corners of Yorkshire. It belongs to Ben and Lindsey Cox who bought it in 2003, knocked it about a bit and created a relaxed but stylish restaurant.

The food is a clever mix of gutsy, regional and seasonal dishes but given a light touch. For starters you might go for sauteed wood pigeon with celeriac and black pudding, or Yorkshire pudding and onion gravy.

For mains, there are trusties like steak and ale pie, steak and chips and cod with cauliflower puree  and brown shrimps. Appropriately for the heartland of Yorkshire pig production, pork tenderloin with a pasty of pork belly alongside. There are two non-meat choices at each course and puddings are commendably good, too. Chocolate fondant oozing liquid chocolate served with vanilla ice cream; and a roast apple cheesecake with brandy snap.

Décor is neither cutting edge modern nor wholly traditional but smart and neat with deep red banquettes and some exposed brick.

A well balanced wine list touches all bases with twenty by the glass.