Shimla Spice, Shipley

Time was when a curry in Bradford meant plastic plates, formica topped tables and a menu that amounted to what the kitchen wanted to get rid of that evening. That’s all changed now and while there are still plenty of bog basic curry houses, the Bradford-Shipley-Keighley triangle has some of the best and most civilised curry restaurants in the north.

Like Shimla Spice, a large, shiny place on Shipley’s Otley Road (another branch in Keighley) with a lengthy menu of Kashmiri dishes. A mixed sizzler plate is their best selling starter for sharing which rounds up chicken tikka, lamb tikka, seekh kebab, lamb chops and fish masala for two. Elsewhere the menu offers subtly spiced dishes named after Pakistani provinces and cities. Mirpuri dishes are cooked with yoghurt, coconut and tomatoes, Multani with green peppers and so on.

Our chana paratha was a deliciously flaky flat bread stuffed with spiced chick peas. A plate of chicken tikka was delicately spiced and tender. Mains, too, passed our test with a flavoursome and melting lamb achari and matar paneer, a dish of tender peas and cheese.

Prices are keen with starters averaging £6.50 and mains £12.95. As with most Indian restaurants, opening times are liberal. Open every day from 5.30pm to almost midnight. Best though to book for evening weekends when this place is packed out. They are unlicensed but Shimla allows you to Bring Your Own.