Sandpiper, Leyburn

He may have won a Roux Scholarship and cooked for the G8 Summit, but at home Jonathan Harrison keeps it if not entirely simple, then honest, straightforward and invariably local. He sends out satisfying dishes like ham hock terrine; pigeon and butternut squash risotto; lovely Dales lamb with dauphinoise potato, and local Dexter steak with béarnaise sauce, dishes that feel just right for an informal 17th century coaching inn and a dining room that reeks of the past with broad oak floorboards, dark green walls, sparkling silver and flickering candlelight. Mr Pickwick himself could have tucked into  the sticky toffee pudding, the crème brulee or the vanilla cheesecake and would undoubtedly have ordered a plate of five Dales cheeses and a  glass of mature port to round things off. Lovely place, lovely service. A sunny terrace for sunny days and a lunch menu of sandwiches and light meals.