Paradise with F. R. and J, Harrogate

Up until lockdown Frances Atkins, Roger Oliver and front of house John Tullett had worked together at the Yorke Arms for some 20 years, so when the doors closed and the inn was turned into a wedding venue, the three of them had to decide what to do next.

What they came up with couldn’t have been more different from the well-dressed dining room and the elegant plates that earned Frances the Michelin star she’d held for 16 years. They commissioned a purpose-built, shiny aluminium Airstream food wagon and parked it in a garden centre.

It was a very cool wagon and Daleside Nurseries at Killinghall near Harrogate  is a very good garden centre but it’s still a long way from the fancy pants Yorke Arms. They cooked from the airstream for some twelve month and in the meantime commissioned a purpose-built restaurant, or cafe as they prefer to call it and it opened in 2022. It’s a spacious, light-filled and calming place down by the lake serving the simple, fresh, nutritious food that Frances has always championed.

Start with a full English breakfast or avocado, poached egg and Parma ham. Move onto the daytime menu of soups, salads, cured salmon and maybe a cheese tart. There are more substantial mains too, of belly pork, wild mushroom, leek and pecan strudel. Desserts of treacle or Bakewell tart, segues into afternoon tea with scones, pastries, lemon drizzle and coffee and walnut cake.

The team say there is a lot less pressure than when they were cooking with a Michelin star in mind and, adds Frances, the customers are a lot less demanding. John Tullett is ever the charming front of house in his cool khaki apron while Roger and Frances cook in the open kitchen, viewed from the chef’s table.

Twice a month they run a more sophisticated Friday evening menu that begins with Champagne and canapés followed by perhaps seafood or partridge then maybe venison or wild halibut and chocolate truffle to finish.

Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am-5pm Booking advised.