No Name, Sheffield

Sheffield, much like Leeds ten years ago was a bit of a culinary desert, but with the likes of Joro, Forge Bakehouse and the Milestone there are plenty of reasons to head to South Yorkshire. Add to the canon No Name restaurant, in student-scruffy Crookes. ‘I’m not reinventing the wheel; we’re just doing simple food in a nice environment’ says chef/owner Tom Samworth, in what turns out to be the understatement of the decade. He’s doing that with knobs on, and all in a kitchen the size of two phone boxes on a Baby Belling. I might have made that last bit up, but you get the picture. So: tiny ego, tiny kitchen, tiny dining room. But huge flavours, imagination and skill. Oh, and a lot of fun.