Arras, York

Arras must be weary of hearing about what it was like before they arrived.  In 2017 Adam and Levaine Humphrey returned from Australia to take over the Coach House occupied by Le Langhe, one of the best loved restaurants in the city and some of us haven’t quite got over Otto Bocca’s abrupt departure.

Fortunately, Arras couldn’t be more different. First, they’ve had a total redesign so it looks totally different with its glamorous bar, fresh white walls, vibrant artworks, white banquettes and navy chairs. The menu is best described as modern British: three (£58) or five (£70) elegant courses. A test meal brought an excellent red mullet and smoked eel followed by cod with white crab meat and a fabulous lobster sauce. Lunch is good value at £35.50 for three courses.