Star Inn the Harbour Whitby

It’s been a long time coming.  Andrew Pern, owner and chef of the much lauded Star Inn at Harome, the Star Inn the City and Mr P’s Curious Tavern, has finally opened in Whitby, his home town.

 

After a major fit-out he’s transformed the former tourist office by the harbour and a mere mackerel throw from the Whitby fish dock, into a predominantly fish restaurant.

 

It’s a terrific menu: there’s devilled whitebait (£3.50) and posh prawn cocktail (£12). A new creation ‘rockpool’ of north sea shellfish which I first tried in Harome is a lobster bisque lifting with prawn, scallop, mussels and samphire (£12). Then there’s deep fried and tender calamari with squid ink aioli (£9), market price lobster or Whitby crab salad (£16). You might think freshly dressed crab is unimprovable until you taste it here, cleverly boosted by avocado ice cream and ‘scallop sand’ (£16) - Pern at his inventive best.

 

If you must there’s fish and chips (cod with beef dripping chips and homemade tartar sauce (£14)) or cop out of fish altogether with ham, steak  or foie gras toad in the hole with onions and gravy, venison cottage pie or pearl barley risotto with goat’s curd and hazelnuts – add smoked lobster for an extra £6.50.

 

He does proper puddings like fruit cake with cinder toffee and toffee sauce, chocolate pot with sea salted caramel, apple and blackcurrant crumble and Knickerbocker Glory.  Or you could opt as we did for an ice cream from the cute ice cream parlour at the side.

 

As at Star Inn the City, there’s a bar and outdoor drinking terrace. On a sunny Saturday lunch all of Whitby was pouring in and out for pints. An evening meal would be more genteel, if that’s your preference.

 

I’m not totally convinced by the décor, the reproduction posters, the lobster pots, the model galleons and the Frank Meadow Sutcliffe sepia snaps of Whitby waifs, but it’s Pern’s way, and makes the whole package cheerful if not conspicuously cheap. And while I gather there was grumbling from the established chippies of Whitby at the prospect of Pern hitting town, there’s plenty of room for someone bringing a fresh perspective to our fish and shellfish.

 

Star Inn the Harbour

Langbourne Road, Whitby YO21 1YN

Tel 01947 821900
www.starinntheharbour.co.uk

View larger map

Type: Restaurant

Price guide

3 out of 5

Cuisine type: British

Part of Eat North Yorkshire

Review by Jill, 17 July 2017

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