We’ve written before about Richard and Lindsey Johns when they closed their delightful little Artisan restaurant in Hessle (which we loved) and resurfaced at the Falcon in Withernwick, a village way out east between Hornsea, Beverley and the sea.
We enjoyed it well enough but gastropubbery on the wild east coast was never going to be a stretch for Richard Johns and after a brief period helping to set up Mr P’s, they have now moved to a former tea room at Raskelf, fifteen miles north of York near Easingwold, where Richard is settling comfortably back to cooking in the Artisan mould.
Rascills offer three choices at each course. Begin with a delicate starter of whipped goat’s cheese with a crisp ball of mozzarella and an intensely flavoured apple jelly. Mains could be honey glazed duck or on our visit, lamb rump with pea risotto and a clever garnish of quail eggs and dusting of truffle. We finished with a dark chocolate delice served with clotted cream ice cream, a sharp raspberry sauce and a spot of honeycomb to offset bitter chocolate and the sharp raspberry. Clever stuff.
Richard and Lindsay Johns have put their all into this restaurant and while Raskelf is never going to see much passing trade, we assure you it’s worth a detour. Don’t come looking for tweezered food on small plates but more traditionally balanced dishes, thoughtfully put together, beautifully presented. Johns is one of Yorkshire’s best chefs. Simple as that. Good news, too, that they are open daytime for soups, salad, those exquisite scotch eggs, cottage pie, cheese plate or tea and cake in the bar. Oh and the last Sunday in the month, lunch.
Howker Lane, Raskelf, York, North Yorkshire YO61 3LFTel 01347 822031
Review by Jill, 11 February 2017blog comments powered by Disqus