Andrew Pern, the restless owner and executive chef of the Michelin-starred Star at Harome and more recently the Star Inn the City, has done it again. He’s opened in York’s Petergate with Mr P’s Curious Tavern and we like it a lot.
With a pretty bow window that leads to an interior of dark green walls, black beams, a lot of wood, oil lamps and bric a brac, it’s a wintry sort of place, dark and intimate. A long menu is not usually a good sign in our book but here the selection of small plates is fresh, exciting and very good. Steak tartare has smoked bacon and 'HP Ripple ice cream' with' fried bread sprinkles', Croque M’Lass brings smoked salmon, Comte cheese and quails egg in a fried bread sandwich. There's a high class hot dog or 'haute dog' as Mr P has it, in a brioche bun, served with fried onions and juniper flavoured coleslaw. Melted butter potted shrimps sing with mace; and the freshest plate of tuna sashimi is served with spring onions, horseradish and pink ginger. Prices range between £3 for a dish of smoked almonds to a charcuterie plate at £13.95 with the average around £5. If you can’t choose go for ‘A Taste of Mr P’s’ at £40 or £60 for two and let them bring on a selection of dishes. There are some interesting wines and sherries and an expansive gin menu.
71 Low Petergate, York YO1 7HYTel 01904 521177
Review by Jill, 27 August 2016blog comments powered by Disqus