I like Jamie Oliver’s books. Like his TV shows. Didn’t like his supermarket ads. Don’t like the idea of his restaurant chain. In fact I’d never been to one until last night. I even turned down Oliver Inc.’s offer of a free meal for a review on Squidbeak.
So for three years I’ve walked stubbornly past Jamie’s Italian in York ignoring its ‘We’re passionate’ billboard and big, laminated menu. I’d heard poor reports and anyway Squidbeak doesn’t do chains. They don’t need our reviews. But, on the walk home after the cinema we popped in for a bowl of pasta, and it was good. Fresh crab spaghettini with capers, chilli, fennel and anchovies; porcini fettucine with wild mushrooms, mascarpone, garlic, white wine, gremolata, parmesan and breadcrumbs, both around the £13 mark. A couple of 250ml glasses of humdrum house wine were pushing it at £7.45. I can’t speak for the rest of it, the boards, the steak, the calves’ liver, the cheesecake and the brownie, but based on a bowl of pasta it passed the test.
Lendal Cellars, 26 Lendal, York YO1 8AATel 01904 238979
Review by Jill, 20 May 2015blog comments powered by Disqus