Move along, nothing to see here .. except a sensational dinner. I know, I know, we bang on about Gimbals, but we don't do it lightly, as you know. There are few lovelier things in the world than walking into the magical, mercurial space, getting a warm hello from Steph and Janet and sitting down with good friends to a taster menu cooked up by Simon. Sometimes no choice is a good thing. JUST FEED US!!! And feed us he did.
Hot tossed salad of juniper and rice smoked duck, pancetta and faro to start, and what a complete delight it was; big flavours - something Simon's never shy of - and the tenderest slivers of duck, a quince dressing amping it up to eleven. The brioche croute sitting sweetly on the top was as fine as a fairy's cloak. And yes, they do exist in Sowerby Bridge.
Next up, a Portobello mushroom bejewelled with Nigella seed laced with tamarind syrup - another big hitter on the flavour front. Dish of the night for me was wild sea bass tempura, perfectly judged, the batter shattering at the fork, the sweet samphire, shallot and pea fricassee bob on. All this and a cracking cocktail at the front and something astonishingly chocolatey at the end.
We tease Marina O'Loughlin and Jay Rayner all the time. Come and eat with us, you London lot! We cry. One day one of them will, and the first place we'll take them is Gimbals. Watch this space.
76 Wharf Street, Sowerby Bridge, West Yorkshire, HX6 2AFTel 01422 839329
Review by Mandy, 27 February 2015blog comments powered by Disqus