Bradford born chef Paul Cunliffe grabbed Richard Walton Allen’s baton, placed his feet firmly under the table rolled out a new menu and in less than 18 months had moved on to open up a new pub, the Dunsforth and Lower Dunsforth. We'll report back on the opening.
In the meantime we are leaving up our review of Cunliffe's Fourth Floor to give you a flavour of what's on offer and when we learn of his replacement, we'll report back.
On a sunny early spring midweek lunchtime, the Fourth Floor’s full of happy, chattering diners which makes for a conducive atmosphere. Two courses for 20 quid might have something to do with it – great value for dishes like beetroot cured salmon with a lemon and horseradish salad or bubble & squeak rosti with tomato and garlic jam, spinach, glazed crottin and pesto.
My boursin and spinach stuffed chicken thighs in pancetta with leek & potato fritter didn’t deliver a big enough hit of my favourite 80’s cheese, otherwise it was a successful plate. Emma’s sea bass came with fat Israeli couscous, a garnish of chorizo-stuffed squid and ‘misplaced wintery veg’ which turned out to be baby turnip. Fish and turnip? Now that is slightly scary.
Caramel mousse tasted great but was the colour of American Tan tights, ie wrong, whilst my Catalan custard tart was fabulous on top but had a sticky pastry base. The orange ‘bubbles’ were sensational though, sending some serious serotonin messages to my jaded brain.
So. More jellies, foams and depth-charge fruit-filled balls than his predecessor brought to the table. Will Paul Cunliffe’s reign prove to be as popular as RWA’s? Let’s give him a bit longer behind the counter before we pronounce.
Fourth Floor, Harvey Nichols, 107-111 Briggate, Leeds LS1 6AZTel 0113 204 8888
Review by Mandy, 11 April 2012blog comments powered by Disqus