Yorke Arms Ramsgill in Nidderdale

In late autumn I drove beyond Pateley Bridge into lovely Nidderdale to enjoy an overnight stay and dinner in the newly upgraded Yorke Arms. It was recently sold to a local entrepreneur but chef and former owner Frances Atkins agreed to stay on in the kitchen. Dinner is a five or eight course tasting menu and at £75 and £108 respectively and an à la carte hovering around £16 and £25 for starters and mains,  it’s not cheap but the Yorke Arms is a special occasion place, so if you haven’t been then beg borrow or steal because go you must. 

When I first ate here in the 90s I fondly remember generous plates of ham, egg and chips after a long fell walk. It’s moved up a league and a half since then and in 2003 the Yorke Arms was awarded a Michelin star. That it’s held on to that star for the last 15 years says much about Frances Atkins’ attention to detail and her refined menus. 

Asked to describe her style of cooking, Frances Atkins comes up with ‘light, fresh, seasonal.’ So it proves, but it’s also much, much more than that. It has classic French influences but is rooted in Yorkshire. It is modern but never up itself. Portions are not too big, not too small. She’s cracked it.

The genial John Tullett, the smooth general manager who is Frances’ right hand man is on hand most evenings. When you are settled in the lounge with menus, pre-drinks, amuse gueules he will guide you through the menu which might include turbot, or venison with oxtail, malted parsnip and damsons.

Recent changes include an à la carte menu in the cosy small dining room with its old oak tables and wood fires. Here you might order  steak and chips, sea bream, which is a less involved menu (though still good) if you’re staying and have already sampled the tasting menu and want a simpler dinner. We sampled the cured halibut and lobster on a buckwheat pancake and seared scallops with truffled cheese brioche. It’s all sublime. A truly superior kitchen at the top of its game.

Yorke Arms

Ramsgill in Nidderdale, Pateley Bridge, N. Yorkshire HG3 5RL

Tel 01423 755243
www.theyorkearms.co.uk

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Type: Restaurant with Rooms

Price guide

5 out of 5

Cuisine type: Modern British

Yorke Arms features in our Top Ten Favourites

Part of Eat North Yorkshire

Review by Jill, 4 November 2018

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