The road to Hawes and Millfosse Cottage is stunning whichever way you approach it; Wensleydale is one of the most impressive landscapes in the country; vast, with mighty hills, rolling pastureland and forests. Twenty years ago I spent one of the worst weekends of my life here with The Boyfriend in an unheated, draughty cottage; it was miserable, we fell out and went home early in silence. Not a chance of that happening at Mill Fosse.
I hate the term ‘romantic bolthole’; sounds like a move you haven’t tried yet. Whatever. Millfosse Cottage is a big cottage for two on three floors, with under-floor heating, a wood-burning stove and double glazing – so bring on the prevailing westerly, you won’t shiver. Otley-based Karen and Alistair rescued this fine old stone building from dereliction with a view to using it themselves at the weekend; it didn’t turn out that way, but it does feel like you’ve been handed the keys to someone’s rather lovely home for a day or two.
The spec is five star; the stunning kitchen is hand built by Drew Forsyth of Hebden Bridge (with an Everhot electric aga and a winsome mix of vintage and Emma Bridgewater crockery) the staircase is bespoke and the solid oak sleigh bed on the top floor has a fat mattress and Out of Eden cotton bedding. No telly up here, but why would you want one when you’ve got a Bose music system and the stars to stare at?
In the huge bathroom, a marble floor and walls and a monster walk-in monsoon shower. This is a seriously luxurious bathroom, pimped up with very thick towels and Arran Aromatics; try hurrying me out of it at your peril.
Hawes is a busy, typical working town and Millfosse Cottage is bang smack in the centre. There’s no tweeness here, it’s an unpretentious farming (and tourist) community, a living, breathing place, not a museum. The cottage overlooks the magnificent (though noisy) Duerley Beck and its waterfalls – a rather spectacular location for a memorable stay. MW
How Much? From £285 for 3 nights to £630 for a week at high season
Kids Stuff? No – this is a glamourous grown up treat to yourself
Well Placed? Millfosse Cottage is bang in the middle of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Hawes means ‘a pass between mountains’ standing as it does between Buttertubs and Fleet Moss. Adjoining dales are Swaledale, Cotterdale, Dentdale, Garsdale and Wharfedale – all stunning, all different, all worth visiting. Walk round the Hawes Town Trail, Millennium Walk or Pennine Way (all from the door).
Good Grub? There are plenty of cafes and bistros in town, plus a very good butcher; the Moorcock Inn in nearby Garsdale is remote, stylish and quirky, and dishes up good pub grub. And Hawes of course is the home of Wallace’s favourite Wensleydale Cheese.
Hawes, North Yorkshire, DL8 3QGTel 0113 284 2240
Part of Stay North Yorkshire
Review by Mandy, 18 November 2011blog comments powered by Disqus