It’s hard to imagine Eccy Road needing another restaurant; chuck a brick and you’ll hit one.
But this one is special. I had the same singing in the heart department when I walked into Moran's a couple of years ago; oh that involuntary lift you get in your step when you just know it’s going to be good.
It’s easy to miss, tucked away on the parade of shops just below Napoleon’s Casino, and of course the traffic at Hunter’s Bar is ever-present, but inside, a sense of quiet calm descends. Cool wood floors and furniture, plain walls with Sue Carter’s fabulous monochrome images reminding you of the city’s steel history; the picture window lets in tons of light.
Of late, we’ve been singing the praises of pared down menus and what appears to be a step away from the foams, dabs and dots chefs seem wedded to; a young man called John Parsons is in the kitchen here, and he exemplifies this shift. Fritto misto, smoked chilli, lemon Mayo £8; duck breast with rhubarb, crisp duck roll, balsamic dressing £15, and on this day for me: salmon fishcake, poached egg, hollandaise £6. I wouldn’t normally order this (eaten sooo many of them) but I’d spotted this being brought to the next table, and it looked like the daddy of them all. And it was, the cake fat with fish not spud, beautifully crisp on the outside and fluffy within, the bright yellow yolk spilling over it all. And note-perfect sauce, just enough.
They do this great thing at lunchtime, a short (six choices) menu with dishes somewhere between starters and mains with prices from £5-£8, good for most pockets. One of these is pork loin, black pudding, roast apple (£8) and is the best plate of food I’ve had since Prashad (and it’s reviewing season so there’ve been a few). Sweet, tender meat fanned over a crumble of warm black pudding, a spoonful of apple sauce, and joy of joys, a little brown jug of gravy. This simple dish has such depth of flavour, the textures work so well together and it’s so perfectly presented I’m sorry I’m dining alone. At times like this you need a cohort to rave to.
Sadly they’re out of the rhubarb and pear pie (£4) but it’s perhaps as well, I’m full anyway. But I bet it’s amazing, and without it Kitchen has bounced straight into our top ten, Pop Pickers.
762 Ecclesall Road, Sheffield, South Yorkshire S11 8TBTel 0114 267 1351
Review by Mandy, 13 September 2011blog comments powered by Disqus